Author: Kevin

Late summer storms can dump a lot of rain on the Twin Cities in a short amount of time, and your sump pump is the one piece of equipment standing between that rain and a wet basement. Most homeowners never think about their sump pump until the moment they need it most. A quick sump pump test now takes about five minutes and can save you from finding out the hard way that it was not working.

Why Testing Your Sump Pump Matters Before Storm Season

A sump pump can sit completely unused for weeks or even months between rain events, which means a failing part rarely announces itself ahead of time. A stuck float switch, a worn out motor, or a clogged discharge line can all go unnoticed until the pit fills with water and the pump does not turn on. Even a small amount of standing water can cause lasting damage, and the Federal Emergency Management Agency notes that flooding is one of the most common and costly disasters a home can face. 

Testing it before storm season gives you a chance to catch these problems while you still have time to schedule a repair, and it pairs well with other seasonal checks, like making sure you know how to prevent frozen pipes once the weather turns colder later in the year.

How to Test Your Sump Pump in 5 Minutes

Grab a bucket of water and set aside five minutes to run through this quick check.

1. Clear the pit of debris: Remove the cover and check for mud, gravel, or anything else that could block the pump intake or float switch.
2. Pour in a bucket of water: Slowly pour water into the pit until the water level rises toward the float switch.
3. Watch the float switch: It should rise with the water and trigger the pump automatically, without you needing to touch it.
4. Listen for the pump activating: You should hear the motor kick on within a few seconds of the float rising.
5. Check the discharge line: Confirm water is actually flowing out through the discharge pipe and away from your foundation, not just circulating in the pit.

If the pump activates quickly and pushes water out through the discharge line without any strange noises, it passed the test. If something felt off along the way, it is worth a closer look before the next storm rolls through.

Signs Your Sump Pump May Be Failing

Beyond the five minute test, a few patterns tend to show up when a sump pump is on its way out.

• • The pump runs constantly without a storm: A pump that cycles on and off with no rain in sight often points to a stuck float switch or a pump that is undersized for how much water is reaching the pit.
  • The float switch is stuck or sticking: If the float does not rise and fall smoothly, or it snags on the side of the pit, the pump may never get the signal it needs to turn on during a real storm.
  • You hear grinding, rattling, or odd noises: Unusual sounds usually mean something inside the pump, like the impeller or motor bearings, is wearing out and will not last much longer.
  • The motor hums but nothing happens: A pump that hums without actually moving water often has a jammed impeller or a motor that has burned out internally.
  • The backup battery isn’t holding a charge: If your home has a backup sump pump system, a battery that will not hold a charge leaves you without protection the moment the power goes out during a storm.

Any one of these on its own is worth a closer look, and a couple showing up together usually means the pump is closer to failing than it lets on. The sooner you catch it, the more options you have before the next storm puts it to the test.

Frequently Asked Questions 

How often should a sump pump run during rain?

During steady or heavy rain, it is normal for a sump pump to cycle every few minutes as groundwater collects in the pit. If it is running far more often than that, or seems to run nonstop even during a light rain, it may be struggling to keep up or dealing with a stuck float switch. A technician can tell you whether the cycling pattern you are seeing is normal for your home.

How do I test my sump pump to make sure it’s working?

The fastest way is to pour a bucket of water into the pit and watch whether the float switch rises, the pump activates, and water flows out through the discharge line. This simple test takes about five minutes and catches most common problems before they become a bigger issue. If anything looks or sounds off during the test, it is worth having a professional take a closer look.

What should I do if the sump pump fails during a storm?

If your sump pump stops working during an active storm, move valuables away from the floor and, if it is safe to do so, check whether the pump is plugged in and the breaker has not tripped. Avoid standing in water near an electrical outlet or the pump itself. Once the storm passes, schedule a repair right away so your home is protected before the next round of rain.

What to Do If Your Test Turns Up a Problem

If your pump did not activate, the discharge line was not moving water, or you noticed any of the warning signs above, it is best to get it checked out before the next heavy rain rather than after. A quick repair now can help you avoid a flooded basement without the stress of dealing with water damage during a storm.

Thelen Plumbing, Heating & Air offers sump pump repair throughout the Twin Cities, including diagnosis of float switch problems, worn motors, and backup battery systems. If your test raised any concerns, or you would simply like a professional to confirm your pump is ready for the season, contact us to schedule a visit before the next storm arrives.

If your air conditioner is running nonstop but your house still feels warm, you are dealing with one of the most frustrating problems a homeowner can face during a Minnesota summer. The fan hums along, the outdoor unit is clearly working, and the thermostat barely moves. When an AC keeps running but not cooling the house, the issue usually comes down to something blocking airflow, cutting into refrigerant levels, or confusing the thermostat. Here is what is likely going on, and what you can check before picking up the phone.

What It Means When Your AC Runs But Doesn’t Cool

A running AC that will not cool your home is not usually a sign that the whole unit has failed. In most cases, part of the cooling process is still working (the fan, the compressor) while another part is not doing its job (airflow, refrigerant, or the signal telling the unit what to do). Think of it like a car engine that runs fine but cannot get power to the wheels. Something along the way is getting blocked or lost, and finding that weak link is the key to getting your home cool again.

Common Reasons Your AC Isn’t Keeping Up

A handful of issues show up again and again in Twin Cities homes once the heat and humidity settle in for the summer.

A Dirty Air Filter Is Blocking Airflow

A clogged air filter is one of the simplest and most common culprits. When dust and debris build up, the AC cannot pull enough air across the indoor coil, which starves the whole home of cool air even while the unit runs at full speed. This also forces your AC to work harder than it should, which can raise your energy bills and shorten the life of the equipment.

The Outdoor Condenser Coils Are Dirty or Blocked

Your outdoor unit needs to release heat to the outside air, and it cannot do that if the coils are caked in dirt, grass clippings, or leaves. Homes with mature trees nearby tend to see this more often, since falling debris settles into the coils over the course of a season. A blocked condenser makes the whole system less efficient, even if every other part is working fine.

Your Thermostat Settings Might Be Off

Sometimes the AC itself is working perfectly and the thermostat is the real problem. A fan set to “on” instead of “auto,” a thermostat placed near a heat source, or a battery running low can all cause the system to run without actually cooling the house to the temperature you have set.

Low Refrigerant Is Reducing Cooling Power

Refrigerant carries heat out of your home, and a slow leak can quietly reduce how much cooling power your AC has left. You might notice ice forming on the indoor coil, a hissing sound near the unit, or air that feels only slightly cooler than room temperature. Refrigerant issues are not a simple do it yourself fix and typically call for a licensed technician.

Blocked or Leaky Ductwork Is Losing Cold Air

Older homes with original ductwork sometimes lose a surprising amount of cool air before it ever reaches your living space. Closed vents, crushed duct sections, or small gaps and leaks in the ductwork can all send cold air somewhere other than the rooms that need it.

What You Can Check Before Calling for Repair

A few quick checks can save you a service call, or at least help you describe the problem more clearly when you do call.

1. Check your thermostat mode and fan setting: Confirm it is set to “cool” and the fan is on “auto” rather than “on.”
2. Replace or clean the air filter: A fresh filter restores airflow immediately and costs very little.
3. Clear debris around the outdoor unit: Remove leaves, grass, or anything blocking the coils, and trim back plants growing close to the unit.
4. Make sure vents and doors are open: Closed vents in unused rooms can throw off airflow to the rest of the house.

If you have gone through these steps and your home still is not cooling down, the problem is likely something that needs a trained eye.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is my house not cooling even though my AC is running?

This usually means the AC is working on some level, such as running the fan or compressor, but something is blocking airflow or reducing cooling power along the way. Dirty filters, blocked outdoor coils, and low refrigerant are the most common causes in Minnesota homes. A technician can pinpoint the exact cause with a quick inspection.

Why is my AC on but not dropping the temperature?

If the thermostat setting looks correct and the fan is running, the next things to check are the air filter and the outdoor condenser coils, since both can quietly choke off cooling power. If those look clear, low refrigerant or a ductwork issue is the more likely explanation. These deeper issues usually need a professional diagnosis.

Should I turn off my AC if it’s not cooling?

If you notice ice buildup, hissing sounds, or a breaker that keeps tripping, it is a good idea to turn the unit off and call for service rather than letting it keep running. Continuing to run a struggling AC can sometimes turn a minor issue into a more expensive repair. If it is simply running without any of those warning signs, it is generally fine to leave it on while you schedule a visit.

When It’s Time to Call a Professional

Ice on the indoor coil, hissing or bubbling sounds, warm air even after a fresh filter and clear thermostat settings, or a breaker that keeps tripping are all signs the issue goes beyond routine maintenance. Catching these problems early can help you get cool air back without waiting for a full breakdown in the middle of a heat wave. According to the U.S. Department of Energy, keeping airflow and refrigerant levels in good shape is one of the biggest factors in how efficiently a home cooling unit runs.

If your AC in the Twin Cities is running constantly but your house will not cool down, Thelen Plumbing, Heating & Air can help you find out why. Our technicians offer honest AC repair to track down the real cause instead of guessing, and our AC maintenance visits can catch small issues like dirty coils or low refrigerant before they turn into a bigger repair. Contact us to schedule a visit and get your home comfortable again.

Minnesota summers bring a specific kind of discomfort that thermostat settings alone cannot always fix. Your AC is running, the temperature reads exactly where you set it, and the house still feels sticky and heavy. That is humidity, not temperature, and cranking the thermostat down further usually just means a bigger electric bill without actually solving the problem. Understanding what is driving the moisture in your home makes it much easier to fix.

Why Minnesota Summers Feel So Sticky Indoors

Air conditioning does remove some moisture from the air as a byproduct of cooling, but it is not designed to be a dedicated dehumidifier. On especially humid days, your system may reach the temperature you set well before it has run long enough to pull much moisture out of the air, leaving the space cool but still damp-feeling. Homes with larger AC systems relative to their square footage run into this often, since the unit cools the air quickly and shuts off before humidity removal catches up.

Everyday household activity adds to the load too. Cooking, showering, and even breathing release moisture into the air, and in a well-sealed home that moisture has nowhere to go without help.

Signs Your Home Has Too Much Indoor Humidity

A few common signs point to excess indoor humidity rather than a simple temperature issue:

• Condensation on windows or cold surfaces: Moisture beading up on glass, especially in the morning, is one of the clearest indicators of high indoor humidity.
• Musty odors in bathrooms, basements, or closets: These smells usually mean moisture is lingering somewhere without enough airflow to dry it out.
• A clammy or heavy feeling indoors: If the air feels thick even when the temperature reads comfortable, humidity is the more likely culprit.
• Visible mold or mildew in damp areas: Bathroom grout, basement corners, and window sills are common early spots for growth when humidity stays elevated.

If several of these sound familiar, addressing the moisture directly will likely do more for your comfort than adjusting the thermostat further.

Ways to Reduce Humidity Without Overworking Your AC

Run Bathroom and Kitchen Exhaust Fans

These fans exist specifically to move moisture-heavy air outside before it spreads through the rest of the home. Running them during and for a while after showers or cooking makes a noticeable difference, and it is a habit that costs nothing to build.

Add a Whole-Home Dehumidifier

A whole-home dehumidifier works alongside your existing system to pull excess moisture out of the air independently, rather than relying on your AC’s cooling cycle to do it indirectly. This is often the most effective fix for homes that consistently feel humid despite a properly functioning AC, and it can be integrated into your existing ductwork.

Address Duct Leaks and Airflow Issues

Leaky ductwork can pull humid air in from attics, crawl spaces, or the outdoors and distribute it through the home, working against whatever dehumidification your system is providing. Sealing and balancing your ductwork helps your AC condition the air it is actually supposed to be moving.

Cut Down on Unnecessary Indoor Moisture

Drying laundry on indoor racks, running humidifiers unnecessarily, or leaving pots of water simmering longer than needed all add moisture that your system then has to work to remove. Small changes to these habits reduce the overall load on your home’s air.

FAQs 

Why does my house feel humid even though my AC is running?

Air conditioning cools the air as its primary job, and moisture removal happens as a secondary effect of that cooling process. On humid days, a system can reach the set temperature before it has run long enough to remove much moisture, leaving the space cool but still damp-feeling.

Will a whole-home dehumidifier increase my energy bill?

A whole-home dehumidifier does use some additional energy to run, but it often allows your AC to work less overall since the air feels comfortable at a slightly higher thermostat setting. Many homeowners find the two balance out or even see a net improvement in comfort per dollar spent.

What indoor humidity level should I be aiming for in summer?

Most homes are comfortable with indoor humidity between 30 and 50 percent during summer. Levels consistently above that range make a home feel stuffy and create favorable conditions for mold and dust mites, even when the temperature itself feels fine.

Schedule a Professional Indoor Air Quality Evaluation

If humidity remains a problem after addressing the basics, a professional evaluation can identify whether the issue is your system’s sizing, ductwork, ventilation, or something else entirely. Indoor air quality services cover this kind of assessment along with solutions tailored to what is actually causing the moisture buildup in your specific home.

Persistent indoor humidity is not something you have to just get used to every summer. According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, keeping indoor humidity in a comfortable, controlled range also helps prevent the mold and mildew growth that thrives in damp conditions. Thelen Plumbing, Heating & Air helps Minnesota homeowners get ahead of humidity problems with solutions that work with your existing AC instead of forcing it to compensate. 

If your home has ductwork that could use an inspection, we can also help you explore ductless mini-split options for rooms that run consistently damp or uneven. Schedule an indoor air quality evaluation online and start breathing easier this summer.

Opening your electric bill in July and seeing a number that is noticeably higher than last month is one of the more predictable surprises of a Minnesota summer. Your air conditioner is doing exactly what it is supposed to do, but that does not make the bill any easier to swallow. The good news is that a higher summer bill is not just something you have to accept. A few adjustments to how your system runs, plus some attention to the equipment itself, can bring that number back down without leaving you sweating through August.

Why Your AC Is Driving Up Your Electric Bill

Central air conditioning is one of the biggest energy users in any home, and several factors compound during the hottest months. Outdoor temperature swings force your system to run longer cycles, a dirty filter restricts airflow, and an aging unit loses efficiency year over year, so a ten-year-old system can cost noticeably more to run than a newer one with the same cooling output.

Thermostat habits matter too. Setting the temperature several degrees lower than necessary, or leaving it that way while no one is home, adds up fast over a billing cycle. None of these factors alone explain a dramatic spike, but together they are usually why a summer bill climbs higher than expected.

7 Ways to Lower Your Cooling Costs This Summer

Bringing your bill back down does not require replacing your entire system. Most of these adjustments start paying off within the same billing cycle.

Set a Smart Thermostat Schedule

Program your thermostat to run a slightly higher setting while you are away and cool the home back down before you return, rather than adjusting it manually throughout the day. The U.S. Department of Energy notes that a consistent, moderate setback can meaningfully reduce cooling costs over a season without sacrificing comfort while you are home.

Change Your Air Filter Regularly

A clogged filter forces your system to work harder to push air through the home, and that extra strain shows up directly in your energy use. Check the filter monthly during peak cooling season and replace it as soon as it looks dirty.

Keep Vents and Registers Unblocked

Furniture, curtains, and rugs placed over supply vents restrict airflow, which makes your system run longer to reach the same temperature. Walking through your home to clear vents in every room costs nothing and helps immediately.

Seal Air Leaks Around the Home

Gaps around windows, doors, and where pipes or wiring enter the house let cool air escape and warm air in, forcing your AC to compensate constantly. Weatherstripping and caulk are inexpensive fixes that reduce the load on your system all season.

Use Fans to Supplement Your AC

Ceiling fans and box fans circulate cool air more evenly through a room, so you can often raise the thermostat a couple of degrees without noticing a difference in comfort, especially in rooms that tend to run warmer than the rest of the house.

Schedule Professional Maintenance

A system with dirty condenser coils, low refrigerant, or worn electrical components works harder to produce the same cooling, which drives up energy use even before anything technically fails. A seasonal AC maintenance visit catches these issues before they show up on your bill.

Consider a High-Efficiency Upgrade

If your system is older and bills keep climbing despite regular maintenance, the equipment itself may be the issue. Newer high-efficiency systems use meaningfully less energy for the same cooling output, and our financing options can spread the cost of an AC replacement over time.

FAQs

How much can regular AC maintenance actually save on my electric bill?

The savings vary by system and how overdue the maintenance was, but a poorly maintained AC can use significantly more energy than one that is properly serviced. Clean coils, correct refrigerant levels, and good airflow all directly affect how hard your system has to work, so a seasonal tune-up often pays for itself in lower energy use alone.

Is it better to leave my AC running all day or turn it off when I leave?

For most homes, a moderate setback while you are away and out of the house works better than turning the system off completely, since a fully warmed-up house takes longer and more energy to cool back down. A programmable or smart thermostat makes this easy to automate without any daily adjustments.

At what age should I start considering an AC replacement instead of more repairs?

Systems older than twelve to fifteen years often lose enough efficiency that a replacement pays for itself in energy savings over time, especially if you are also facing repair costs. We can walk you through the real numbers for your specific system during a free inspection.

When a High Bill Signals a Bigger Problem

Most bill increases in summer are simply the cost of running your AC harder in hot weather, but a sudden, dramatic spike can point to something more specific, like a refrigerant leak, a failing capacitor, or ductwork leaking conditioned air into your attic. If you have addressed the basics above and your bill is still climbing, it is worth having a technician take a look rather than assuming it will resolve on its own.

A high summer electric bill is frustrating, but it is rarely something you have to just live with. Thelen Plumbing, Heating & Air helps Minnesota homeowners get their cooling costs back under control, whether that means a routine tune-up or an honest conversation about whether your system is due for an upgrade. Schedule your AC service online and let our technicians help you figure out where your energy is going.

When a drain backs up, the easiest fix looks like it’s already under the sink. A bottle of Drano or a similar chemical cleaner promises fast results, no tools required. But ease isn’t the same thing as safe, and what you pour down your drain today can affect the lifespan of your pipes for years to come. Here’s an honest look at how chemical drain cleaners and hydro jetting compare.

How Chemical Drain Cleaners Work

Most store-bought drain cleaners rely on caustic chemicals to dissolve organic material like hair, grease, and soap scum. The active ingredients are typically lye (sodium hydroxide) or sulfuric acid, both of which generate heat as they react with the clog.

That heat is part of what makes them effective in the short term. It’s also part of what makes them damaging over time.

The Problem With Chemical Cleaners

The same chemical reaction that breaks down a clog doesn’t stop when the clog is gone. It continues acting on whatever it touches, including your pipes. Here’s where that causes problems:

• PVC pipes: The heat generated by chemical reactions can soften and warp PVC, the plastic pipe material used in most modern homes.
• Older metal pipes: Repeated use of caustic drain products accelerates corrosion in iron and galvanized steel pipes, shortening their lifespan.
• Partial effectiveness: Chemical cleaners often create a temporary opening in a clog without fully clearing the buildup on pipe walls. The same clog tends to return faster the next time.
• Environmental impact: According to the Environmental Protection Agency, many conventional drain cleaners contain chemicals that are hazardous to aquatic ecosystems when they reach waterways through the drain system.

Chemical cleaners also carry safety risks for the person using them. Splashing can cause skin and eye burns, and mixing products containing different active ingredients can create dangerous fumes.

How Hydro Jetting Works

Hydro jetting takes a completely different approach. A licensed plumber inserts a specialized nozzle into your drain line and delivers a high-pressure stream of water, typically between 1,500 and 4,000 PSI, through the pipe.

The pressurized water scours the full interior diameter of the pipe. It doesn’t just punch a hole through the blockage; it removes grease coating from pipe walls, flushes out mineral deposits, clears debris, and leaves the pipe significantly cleaner than it was before.

Why Plumbers Recommend Hydro Jetting for Recurring Clogs

• Professional drain cleaning with hydro jetting addresses the full pipe, not just the visible clog.
• Results last longer because the buildup that causes repeat clogs is fully removed.
• No chemicals means no pipe damage from caustic reactions.
• It’s safe for most pipe materials when performed by a trained technician who assesses the pipe condition first.

One important note: hydro jetting should always be preceded by a camera inspection when pipe condition is unknown. High-pressure water can stress pipes that are already cracked or severely corroded, so a professional will check the line before recommending it.

FAQs About Chemical Drain Cleaners vs. Hydro Jetting

Is Drano safe to use in toilets?

No. Most chemical drain cleaners, including Drano, should not be used in toilets. The chemical reaction can damage the porcelain, warp plastic components inside the tank, and cause pressure buildup that leads to cracking. A plunger is the right starting point for a clogged toilet. If that doesn’t work, a drain snake or professional service is the next step.

How long does hydro jetting take?

For most residential drain lines, hydro jetting takes one to two hours. The timeline depends on the length of the pipe, the severity of the buildup, and whether a camera inspection is performed beforehand. Your technician will give you a more specific estimate after assessing the line.

Will hydro jetting damage my pipes?

When performed by a licensed professional who has assessed the pipe condition first, hydro jetting is safe for most residential plumbing. A camera inspection beforehand identifies any pre-existing damage, cracks, or weak spots that would require a different approach. Technicians adjust water pressure based on pipe material and condition to ensure the process is effective without causing harm.

Which Option Is Right for Your Situation?

For a straightforward, one-time surface clog, a plunger is often the right first step. Chemical cleaners may offer temporary relief, but they come with trade-offs that make them a poor long-term strategy.

For recurring clogs, slow drains affecting multiple fixtures, or any situation where you want a lasting fix, hydro jetting is the more effective and safer choice for your plumbing system. The Plumbing-Heating-Cooling Contractors Association consistently recommends professional drain maintenance over chemical treatments for this reason.

Thelen Plumbing, Heating & Air serves Big Lake, MN, and the surrounding Twin Cities area with honest, no-surprise drain cleaning and hydro jetting services. Our licensed technicians assess your situation, recommend the right approach, and get it done right the first time. Call us at (763) 262-2181 or schedule your service online today.

Most homeowners reach for a plunger the moment a drain starts giving them trouble. And sometimes, that’s all it takes. But a plunger only handles surface-level blockages. When the real problem is deeper in your pipes, no amount of plunging will fix it. Here are five signs your drains are telling you something a plunger can’t solve.

1. Multiple Drains Are Slow at the Same Time

One slow drain usually points to a localized clog, but when your kitchen sink, bathroom tub, and floor drain are all sluggish at once, the issue isn’t in a single pipe. It’s in your main sewer line. That’s a deeper, more serious blockage that requires professional tools to diagnose and clear properly. If you’ve noticed a pattern across multiple fixtures, it’s time to call.

2. You Hear Gurgling Sounds When Water Drains

That gurgling noise after you flush the toilet or empty the sink isn’t random. It happens when air is being pushed through a partial blockage in your pipes. The water is trying to flow past something it shouldn’t have to work around. Gurgling is an early warning that a full blockage is building, and catching it early makes the fix far simpler than waiting until nothing drains at all.

3. Foul Odors Coming Up from Your Drains

A sulfur or sewage smell rising from your drains is a clear signal that organic matter, grease, or waste is sitting somewhere in your plumbing system. In kitchen drains, food residue and grease accumulate along pipe walls and start to break down over time. In bathroom drains, it’s often a mix of hair and soap buildup. Either way, the smell means there’s enough material trapped in the line to cause problems, and a thorough professional drain cleaning is the only real solution.

4. The Same Drain Keeps Clogging

If you’ve cleared a drain three or four times in the past year and it keeps backing up, the underlying cause was never actually removed. Snaking or plunging a clog punches a hole through the blockage, but it leaves residue behind that quickly rebuilds. Hydro jetting clears the full diameter of the pipe, flushing out grease, mineral deposits, and debris completely rather than just creating a temporary opening. Recurring clogs are one of the strongest indicators that a more thorough cleaning method is needed.

5. Water Backs Up in Unexpected Places

If you run the dishwasher and water backs up into the sink, or flushing the toilet causes water to appear in the bathtub, those two fixtures are sharing a blockage somewhere in your drain system. This kind of cross-fixture backup is a sign that the clog has moved beyond individual drain lines and into a shared section of your plumbing. Left unaddressed, it can lead to water damage and sewage backup, which is a much bigger repair. A sewer camera inspection can pinpoint exactly where the problem is before any work begins, so repairs are targeted and efficient.

FAQs About Professional Drain Cleaning

What’s the difference between drain snaking and hydro jetting?

Drain snaking uses a rotating cable to break apart a clog mechanically, which is effective for isolated blockages close to the drain opening. Hydro jetting uses a high-pressure stream of water to scour the entire interior of the pipe, removing grease buildup, mineral deposits, and debris along the pipe walls. Snaking is faster for simple clogs, while hydro jetting is the better long-term solution for recurring blockages or buildup throughout the line.

How often should I have my drains professionally cleaned?

For most homes, a professional drain cleaning every one to two years is a good preventative measure. If you have older plumbing, a household with heavy grease use in the kitchen, or a property with mature trees near the sewer line, annual cleaning is worth considering. Regular maintenance prevents the kind of buildup that leads to emergency calls and costly repairs.

Are chemical drain cleaners safe to use regularly?

Chemical drain cleaners can offer temporary relief for minor clogs, but they are not safe for regular use. The caustic compounds in many store-bought drain products can soften PVC pipes over time and corrode older metal pipes. They also don’t address the root cause of a recurring clog. If you’re dealing with a persistent problem, professional drain cleaning is a safer and more effective solution.

When to Stop DIY and Call a Pro

Plungers and store-bought drain treatments have their place. But they’re short-term tools. Chemical drain cleaners in particular can damage pipe interiors over time, especially in older homes with aging plumbing. According to the Environmental Protection Agency, many chemical drain products contain harsh compounds that can corrode pipes and harm water systems when overused.

If you’re experiencing any of the five signs above, the most cost-effective move is a professional assessment before the problem gets worse.

Thelen Plumbing, Heating & Air serves Big Lake, MN, and the surrounding Twin Cities area with honest, transparent drain cleaning services. Our licensed technicians identify the actual cause of your clog, not just what’s visible, and clear it with the right tool for the job. Whether that’s a drain snake or a hydro jetting service, we’ll let you know exactly what’s involved and what it costs before we start. Call us at (763) 262-2181 or schedule drain cleaning online to get your drains back to working order.

Few things are more frustrating than stepping into what should be a hot shower and getting blasted with cold water instead. If your household is constantly running out of hot water before everyone has had a chance to get ready in the morning, your water heater is trying to tell you something. The problem is almost always one of three things, and the good news is that all of them are fixable.

Why Your Water Heater Recovery Time Matters

Before diving into the culprits, it helps to understand how a tank water heater works. Cold water enters the tank, gets heated by a burner or heating element, and is stored until you need it. When you use hot water faster than the tank can reheat it, you run out. That gap between demand and supply is called water heater recovery time, and when something is wrong with your unit, recovery slows to a crawl or stops altogether.

Culprit 1: Sediment Buildup in the Tank

This is the most common reason homeowners notice a sudden drop in hot water performance. Over time, minerals like calcium and magnesium naturally found in hard water settle at the bottom of your tank. That layer of sediment acts as a barrier between the burner and the water, forcing your water heater to work harder and longer to heat the same amount of water.

Signs of sediment buildup include popping or rumbling sounds coming from the tank, higher energy bills, and water that never seems to get quite hot enough. The fix is often a professional water heater flush, which clears out the buildup and restores efficiency.

Culprit 2: A Broken Dip Tube

The dip tube is a small but critical component inside your water heater. Its job is to direct incoming cold water to the bottom of the tank, where it gets heated before rising to the top for use. When the dip tube cracks or breaks, cold water gets released near the top of the tank instead, mixing directly with your hot water supply before it ever reaches your faucet.

The result is that your tank may be full and technically functioning, but the water coming out feels lukewarm at best. Replacing a dip tube is a relatively straightforward water heater repair, but it does require a professional who can properly diagnose the issue and source the right part for your unit.

Culprit 3: Your Water Heater Is Too Small for Your Household

Sometimes the unit itself is not broken at all. It is just undersized for the number of people relying on it. A tank that made sense for a two-person household may struggle to keep up with a family of five, especially during back-to-back morning showers, laundry cycles, and dishwasher runs all happening at once.

If your water heater is more than ten years old and consistently falling short, a replacement consultation is worth having. A properly sized unit, whether a traditional tank or a tankless system, can make a significant difference in daily comfort and long-term energy costs.

Stop Settling for Cold Showers

Your water heater should be working hard for your household, not holding it back. Whether you need a simple flush to clear out sediment, a repair to get things running properly again, or a full water heater replacement to meet your family’s needs, Thelen Plumbing, Heating & Air has you covered. Contact us today to schedule a service call and get your hot water back where it belongs.

Winter in the Midwest is no stranger to extreme cold, and when temperatures plunge, your home’s plumbing is at risk. Frozen pipes are one of the most common and costly winter plumbing emergencies, but the good news is that most cases are entirely preventable. Here is what every homeowner needs to know to stay ahead of the cold.

Why Frozen Pipes Are a Serious Problem

Water expands as it freezes. When that happens inside a pipe, the pressure buildup can cause the pipe to crack or burst, leading to significant water damage, mold growth, and expensive pipe repair. Pipes in unheated spaces like crawl spaces, garages, attics, and exterior walls are especially vulnerable during a cold snap.

Winter Plumbing Tips: How to Prevent Frozen Pipes

Prevention is far less stressful and far less expensive than cleanup. Here are the most effective steps you can take before temperatures drop:

• Insulate exposed pipes. Any pipe in an unheated or poorly insulated area is a candidate for freezing. Foam pipe insulation is inexpensive and easy to install, wrapping around pipes in crawl spaces, basements, and garages to keep them protected even when outside temperatures fall well below freezing.
• Let faucets trickle. On especially cold nights, allow cold-water faucets connected to exterior walls to drip slowly. Moving water is much harder to freeze than standing water, and that small drip can be the difference between a functioning pipe and a burst one.
• Keep interior temperatures consistent. It is tempting to lower the thermostat when you leave for work or head on vacation, but a dramatic temperature drop inside your home can put your pipes at risk. Keep the heat set to at least 55 degrees Fahrenheit, even when you are away.
• Open cabinet doors under sinks. Especially for cabinets along exterior walls, leaving doors open allows warm air from your home to circulate around the pipes and help prevent freezing.
• Seal gaps and drafts near pipes. Cold air can sneak in through gaps in walls, floors, and around utility penetrations. Use caulk or spray foam to seal any openings where pipes are nearby, particularly in crawl spaces and unfinished basements.
• Disconnect and drain outdoor hoses. A connected garden hose can trap water in the spigot and cause it to freeze back into the supply line. Always disconnect hoses before the first hard freeze and consider installing insulated faucet covers on outdoor spigots.

Taking these winter plumbing tips seriously before a cold front hits can save you from a stressful and costly emergency. A little preparation now goes a long way toward keeping your pipes intact all season long.

What to Do If a Pipe Freezes

Even with the best preparation, freezing can happen. If you turn on a faucet and get little to no water flow, you likely have a frozen pipe somewhere in the line. Here is how to handle it safely:

First, keep the faucet open. As the pipe thaws, water and steam need a place to exit, and an open faucet reduces pressure buildup in the line. Apply gentle, steady heat to the frozen section. A hair dryer on a low setting or heat tape designed for plumbing are the safest options. Work from the faucet end toward the coldest section of pipe, and never leave heat tape unattended for extended periods.

Whatever you do, do not reach for a blowtorch or any open-flame device. A blowtorch is a serious fire hazard around insulation, wood framing, and other building materials. It can also cause rapid pressure changes that lead to a pipe bursting on the spot. The risk simply is not worth it.

If you cannot locate the frozen section, if thawing attempts are not working, or if you suspect the pipe has already cracked, stop and call a licensed plumber immediately. Continuing to run water or apply heat to a compromised pipe can turn a minor problem into a major flood.

Call Thelen Plumbing, Heating & Air at the First Sign of Trouble

Frozen pipes move fast from inconvenient to catastrophic. Whether you need help winterizing your plumbing, repairing a burst pipe, or making sure your heating system is working hard enough to protect your home this season, the team at Thelen Plumbing, Heating & Air is ready to help. Contact us today to schedule a service call and get ahead of winter before winter gets ahead of you.